Château Cantenac-Brown is a notable wine estate located in Margaux, on the left bank of the Gironde river in Bordeaux. It was established in the early 19th Century and was classified as a third growth in the 1855 Classification of the Medoc and Graves.
The Cantenac-Brown Grand Vin typically contains 65 to 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, with 30 to 35 percent Merlot and. Some vintages feature a few percent of Cabernet Franc. It accounts for about 50 percent of the estate’s output.
The grapes for the grand vin are hand-harvested and are vinified plot-by-plot in stainless steel vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrels before the wine is aged in French oak barrels, with 60 percent new wood, for up to 16 months.
Château Cantenac-Brown also makes Brio de Cantenac-Brown, from younger vines on the estate, which was introduced in with the 2005. The ratio of Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot can vary more widely, with some vintages featuring more of the latter. There tends to be a little more Cabernet Franc compared to the Grand Vin.
Brio is aged in French oak for one year, with 25 percent new barrels. Production volumes are slightly less than those for the first wine.
The dry Bordeaux Blanc, Alto de Cantenac-Brown, features around 90 percent Sauvignon Blanc with 10 percent Semillon. Made in much smaller quantities, it is fermented and aged in barrel; around 10 percent of barrels are new.
The 2013 Cantenac Brown has a lot of damp undergrowth and pencil lead scents on the nose. There is not as much fruit as the Desmirail 2013 tasted alongside. The palate is green on the entry, something that cannot be avoided, and the finish feels dry and bitter. This was a very vexing showing from an estate that has improved in recent years and appears less impressive in bottle than out of barrel. I consider Cantenac Brown to be a Margaux property in the ascendant, so this is perhaps just a misstep in a difficult vintage.
